The Shruthi-1 Programmer - FINAL EDITION SOLD OUT!
  • Another question, why do you use a temperature compensated Quartz instead of a RTC Clock Chip (DS1307 for example) ?

  • I have Cmd+R assigned to the ratsnest command (Options -> assign)

  • I changed the schematic in response to the “you can’t change that wire here, do it in the schematic window” message. So my workaround for asinine auto routing was to tweak the schematic a bit. BIG mistake. Lesson learned. Hopefully I have a backup from before it got weird.

    Frank, this schematic came from Neonixie, it’s only slightly modified by me. The MCU is theirs as well so I thought I would just build it to spec and see what it does. My changes are in making the nixies remotely attached in a convenient way (if it works).

    When I do my own clock with my own MCU it will have an RTC.

  • A few odds and ends answered:

    Thanks rdvonz!

    The schematic does not call for bypass caps on the 74141s but I have seen them in pics of someone else’s project. Think I should add them? Do they go across Vcc and GND pins? What value caps?

    I should probably install a header for the AVR programmer, but the chip came programmed and it’s not open source. But it might be nice for emergencies or if I ever decided to code for it.

    My first homegrown project will have an 8-bit PIC. That’s what I programming with currently and it’s working out very nicely. I like the compiler, the chips, and the prototyping board I ordered. But I had these parts in the queue and thought I might as well build this (I have one other completely different one too). This ATMega has some new (to me) clock features that I’m excited to see. If I like them, I will incorporate them into my own design.

  • The Caps go from Vcc to GND and should be as near as possible to the Chips Vcc Pin. 100n is the common Value. Personally i think the habit of having a BypassCap for Every Chip, no matter how slow it is or how tiny the Current is is more of an Urban Legend than of any real use. But if you don’t implement them you will be constantly bothered by someone asking why there are no Caps (see above) so just throw them in….

  • Lol. Okay I will put them in!

    Also, I would like to add a couple of resettable fuses. I have the parts but I was wondering where they should be added to the design? Between the 5V header and the diode, and between the 180V pin and the first resistor? Obviously the PSU is on another board. It will be wired to those headers providing both voltages and ground. I don’t think there is a fuse in the PSU circuit…

  • A Fuse won’t help you from blowing a Chip as the Fuse is most likely so slow the Chip will be evaporated before the Fuse even recognized it should take action…....

  • Use a crowbar circuit for PSU protection.

  • If i ever get bored…..

  • i imagine skeakjet ambika voicecards…

    but when was the last time, you got bored?

  • why 2 chips? will it be a conversation device? i have only one, so i hope that will be sufficient for your speAmbika XT

  • SID Chip voicecard :)

  • Pokey might be better.. it doesnt have its own filter :D

  • @loderbast
    Honestly? Sunday as i had to attend a Child Choir Vampire Musical just because its expected in the glorious Grafschaft Bentheim™ the whole Family will show up even if only the goddaughter of the Wife performs in the last row of the Choir. My Son was bored near Unconsciousness after 10 Minutes and asked if he and I could quit for having an Icecream leaving my Wife behind to be tormented by the “Musicians” – “We will be back before the end and nobody will notice!”. Clever for a 6 year old, huh?

  • @herrprof
    The SpeakJet hasn’t a filter either. Its pure raw digital goodness that pours out of it.

    I will do a female type speaking thing so it has a backup system in case one chip fails – or have you ever seen a woman stop talking?

  • haha! that’s reality proof!

  • @fcd72 yea i agree! Would be sweet!

  • Now in Yello:

    New Full Kits will be available soon….

    Update: Checked Stock – there will be 5 SEM-Style Black on White Kits and 5 WASP-Style Colored Yello on Black Kits, both either in Classical style or the new “Liquid” Design – stay tuned!

  • @Now in Yello@

    Does that mean we’ll get a banana pic?


  • @fcd72 are you still taking orders for Ambika cases? If so, I’m ready to order. :)

  • @xtrmnt
    The actual revision is on its way to Paris, to see if everything fits when assembled (i have only a Rev 0.6 Board here and just plugged in the Jacks etc…). If it does you’ll be able to order a standard configuration via Mutable Instruments or customized ones directly from me. Ill open a separate Thread for this as soon as we are ready to go…. Bottom Line: you are ready to order but I’m not ;-)

  • Tired of drilling holes Frank? ;)

  • Yello?

    Does that mean it’s “oooooo yeah, beautiful”.

    Oh yeah

  • @fcd72

    If you’re seriously considering speakjet, then check this out:

  • @altitude
    Yes, i saw this but its 59$.... and the SpeakJet is just perfect for what i have in Mind. Shure it can emit speak but I’m more into robotic-glitch-o-matic sounds….

  • I thought the title of this thread was a reference to the Swiss group Yello .


  • Never heard of them….. ;-)

  • @fcd72 cool, thank you for the update Frank. One more thing, the XT kit I bought from you did not come with the DC jack. Do you know the digikey or mouser part number for it?

  • @xtrmnt
    Its a fairly standard Part i got from Reichelt

    The 163-R123B-E from mouser looks similar.

    As the Jack should be included ill refund if you order from mouser (fast) or ill send replacement (slow) to your choice.

  • @fcd72 no worries. I appreciate your offer to refund, but it’s not necessary. I will pick one up from Mouser in my next parts order. Thanks for all you do.

  • @fcd72 never heard of Yello? Oh yeah?….


  • WORKS! – well at least if you insert the Chips right….

    Apparently there are 2 GND Traces missing, i think this happened as i tried to poor a GND Copper Plane into which doesn’t whork out somehow.

    Its not a big problem, one trace is for the LED (that illuminates lonely the inside of the Case…) the other is for the Output Expander Thru Port you need if you want to use a Filter Board that needs this Port, too (4PM, Dual SVF, PoliVoks without Manual Filter Switch like on the WASP Edition). Ill gladly provide the 2 Wires and extra Instructions as i don’t want to discard these boards which are otherwise perfect.

    Soldering this thing takes exactly 10Minutes 25 Seconds – quick build…


    Ladies and Gentleman,

    new Kits are Available! I have 10 Full Kits (*everything* you need to build a Shruthi XT expect solder – and a Shruthi….) available, 5 Kits in Black Case/Black Top/Yellow Engraving, Color Scheme as seen above and 5 Kits in Black Case, White Top, Black Engraving (SEM-Style), both with this Design:

    Customizable is the Filter Configuration (one/two) and wether or not you want the SMR-4 MK2 Rotary Filter Switch.

    Kits Contain:

    • Yello FactoryMade Rev1.7 Programmer PCB
    • all Chips, Caps, the 220R, Square Yello LED, Connectors to populate the PCB
    • 32 Alpha Pots + Knobs Matching your Cases Color
    • 4 PreCrimped RainbowCables for the Pots to save you precious Time and all Wire for wiring the various Wires.
    • Audio+MIDI Jacks, Power Jack, On/Off Switch for the Case
    • Laser Cut Acrylic Case with 3Ply Top, all Screws + Nuts + Stick on Feet necessary
    • A set of Flat Top LEDs either in Yello/Red/Green ColorScheme to match your Display
    • Victory Candy

    Price is as before 250€ (-8€ If you don’t want the Filter Switch), international shipping as small parcel is 17€, in Europe may be cheaper Options.

    If you want to order contact me via fcdaniels (ät) me (dot) com for details and be prepared to put down a 30% deposit to confirm your order (i had bad experiences vanished Orders in the past). Kits will be delivered during August.

    Yello on Black: ZERO! SOLD OUT
    Black on White: ZERO! SOLD OUT

  • Very nice job Frank.

  • very cool man!!!

    saubere arbeit. und vorallem KIT’s !!!!!!

    i’m impresst

  • Having a knob assigned to everything makes it so much easier to create sounds.

    Just wish there was some way to control the mod matrix easily :)

  • yeah, my programmer board has arrived! Now I only have one question: since this one now has two nice header pins, how do I connect it to the 4-PM Shruthi. I guess I have to connect the control board to the expansion port IN on the board, like on the picture you’ve posted (though I’m not totally sure, since one pin was to be connected in a different way, wasn’t it?)
    The question is, how do I connect the OUT on the board to the 4-PM filter board?

  • plug the filter into the programmer board thru port as it it was a digital board, leftmost pin is vcc. all other connections are already made internal

  • hmm I don’t get it, what’s the THRU port? I think I need a banana chart :)

  • ok I’ll be opening a new discussion, so I don’t derail this thread too much :)

  • OK, who is in for the last (white) one?

  • So is the last one taken or still available? If they are gone, do you expect a new run anytime soon?

  • Currently the last one is reserved. A new run is earliest end of October.

  • Update for the August Run:

    All Cases Cut (besides the Front Panels – I’m waiting if someone wants a custom engraving…), PCBs on Stock, Pots from HK ETA Monday, rest of the Parts ETA Wednesday, so its just some crimping and sorting and then we are ready to go.

  • Update:
    My delivery from HongKong got trapped in German Customs….... so expect a slight delay :(

  • Update:

  • Waiting with bated breath for it to arrive!

  • The knob empire has regrouped.

  • And there are new fellows in the background: the PotTroopers….

    Some more Pics of what will be delivered.

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