IR3109 Board Soldering Order
  • Cheers rosch!

    I didn’t do such a good job getting the other IR3109 off the board, and snapped off part of three of the legs on one side. There’s still enough left to solder a ‘false leg’ to, so it should still be usable. It’s still in better condition than some of the salvaged chips I’ve seen on eBay, which appear to have just been snipped off at the top of the board…

    I’ll test it tomorrow, when decide what I’m going to do with it. Not sure I want to build two Shruthis with the same filter.

    Right, to bed!


  • Just got my IR3109s desoldered from the Phaser PCB. So. If anybody wants _one_ IR3109, i got one (mildly bend PINs) available.
  • Cool janvanvolt! Did you desolder them, or cut them off like me, just out of interest?


  • i might be interested if rosch isnt janvanvolt

    drop me an email (in profile)


  • edit: reading ain’t easy…
    nope, not interested, i’ll grab one together with fcd72 and plunder it myself!

  • I unsoldered them with Solder wick and pump.
  • Has anyone tried using ChipQuick to desolder non-SMD chips? Does it work?

  • Dan: yes but it does not work as well as it does on SMD parts. You need a ton of it to keep it hot enough

  • If you are talking about harvesting parts from things like PH-2’s, you really don’t need anything fancy to do a good job of it. Largely because the PCB is single sided, making it MUCH easier.
    All I used was a pretty standard and cheap 25 watt soldering iron, and a solder sucker. I didn’t even need wick.

    Just apply a little fresh (leaded) solder to the joint (this will help it flow better). Heat the joint up well with the very tip of your iron, which should just about give you enough clearance to get the solder sucker right on top of the joint. And… SUCK!! If you get it right, that will remove at least 90% of the solder on a board like this. Repeat for the rest of the joints.
    Then, using the iron, you can manipulate any pins that are stuck on the edge of the PCB holes. IE, move the pin with the iron into the centre of the hole if it is sticking. It may restick slightly but you don’t usually need to worry too much about that.
    Finally, before trying to lift the chip up, push it down onto the PCB first (hardly any of the IC’s were totally flush against the PCB). Usually that will free it up enough to lift it out quite freely, and without damage. I used a very small flat head screw driver to prise the chip up if it was still sticking some.

    I practiced on some of the IC’s I didn’t need first, like the IR9022’s, before moving on to the IR3109’s. But I managed to remove every single IC from the board without any damage at all.

    It’s not the nightmare job I feared it might be. Again, the fact it’s an old single sided PCB makes all the difference.
    (Im still nigh on useless at removing components from modern double sided boards!)

  • Thanks altitude and luap!

  • has anyone used wick to do the job?
    i finalement got my PH-2 from the USA, not working as an effects unit but i’m sure the ICs are fine, as there was all kinds of modulating sound, but without plugging in my bass. a few times it produced the desired effect so i guess there’s something else wrong in there.
    nice! the board also carries the NE570 compander!!!

    i’ve desoldered some parts also contained in x0xb0x from a boss DRP and had really good results with solder wick. i haven’t been able to confirm they still work though (as my x0xb0x itself isn’t still working).
    i’m afraid to overheat them IR3109, so maybe it would be better to desolder pin by pin with a sucker, no?
    @fcd72, want some green knobs?

  • Maybe try both? (Wick & sucker) But I got by just fine using only the sucker. These old boards are really easy to remove parts from.
    You’ll notice some of the transistors in there are ideal for x0xb0xes too!

    As for the NE570.. Out of curiosity, what is it good for? I extracted mine too, although mine is labeled NE571?

  • there are some diy compressor / compander projects, for example the one from Thomas Henry’s book (@Magic smoke). i haven’t read it and i’m not sure atm whether it was the 570 or 571 but they seem quite similar when roland used both in the same place. they’re also available eg from banzai for about 5€ or so.
    i know they’re also used in other diy projects i ran into. it’s no unobtainium and not the most expensive part but quite useful.
    i found there are also 3 2SK30A Y in the phaser!

    btw i did it with desolder wick, listening to some jazz, quick job after all. i hope they’ll work. gonna try tonight

  • Yes, apparently the 2SK30AY’s are fairly sought after. A x0xb0x only needs 1 of those though.. You’ll find a couple of 945’s in there too however, and you can certainly put those to good use in a x0xb0x.
    I also thought about recycling some of the caps.. I know some tone can come from those, and they are of the right type and ‘period’ Except I can’t make any bloody sense out of the codes on them! I must be dim, as it still makes little sense after reading various online capacitor guides.. Doh..
    It probably servers me right for splitting hairs over the sound though, huh! ;) I was just interested in experimenting a little with them I guess.

  • the only caps of any value would be the bunch of polystyrenes 103 (10N) and 473 (47N) and K is the tolerance, some of them still have quite long legs so maybe i’ll harvest them too. but all the other stuff is absolutely worthless, like the ceramic ones or the electrolytics. i cut most of them before desoldering to have some room to grab the chips.
    i actually don’t need more x0xb0x parts, at least not for the x0xb0x as i have the kit from gaetano. cool that i found the SKs, i can probably use them for other stuff (if they still work)

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