How do you plan on housing your shruti?!
  • Well, what do you plan on doing? Over at the wtpa forums hammond boxes (extruded and ns1790) was already discussed, but I am really curious what you people plan on doing! Maybe someone plans to rip up an old midi / usb keyboard and build the shruti into that?

    I am kinda planing ahead since the wtpa was really some heavy metal work on that big hammond box i put it in (wouldn't do it again), and I think I would like to go a route that is a little easier on me, my time and my drill. Maybe a plastic box?!
  • - The 2 of the first testers who are in Paris know a guy who can make custom enclosures and metal faceplates. I'll let you know more when I see the results, but it might be possible to get him to make more faceplates.
    - The people at Pedal parts plus have told me (3 weeks ago) that they were getting a CNC machine! They said it would take a couple of weeks before they started taking orders, and I am eagerly waiting for that!
  • I usually go three routes with cases for my projects,

    1) The Pactec PT8/PT10. These are the sloped plastic cases used on the x0xb0x, Midibox MB6582, and a couple other kits out there. Reasonably cheap (~$30), spacious, and easy to work with. They come in two sizes. This is the PT8 I used for my WTPA:

    2) Front panel express. These offer the most flexibility since you can make them just about any size you want but they are pricey. For my rack units I just get the front and back made and buy 1/16” aluminum sheet for the top and bottom. My 2nd x0xb0x is based on one of these enclosures very similar to this:

    3) Hammond extruded aluminum enclosures. These are anodized aluminum enclosures consisting of a base with sides, a sliding top, and front and back plates. These look very nice and you can do the work yourself since it is thing and easy to machine. Cheap also. This is what I foresee for my Shurti-1.

    Being a machinist by trade, I am pretty comfortable doing a lot of the work myself but for more complex stuff, I always just send it to front panel express and have them do it. They will take anything you send them and machine it for you. I have had the do several of my enclosures and they are always on point and provided you DONT get the engraving done, very affordable. This is my MB808 they did based on a Hammond slopped aluminum case:

  • Thanx for all this advice :) Like Pichenettes said, i know someone wich can make faceplate, but he told me that with square button it's a lot more expensive than without....I will try to buy some round one @ digikey and he will make me a prototype...
  • About 40$ @ Front panel express! great! (without serigraphie :) )
  • EATYone: Do you have dimensions for the PCBs? Can you share your faceplate FPD file?

  • The round buttons are: digikey:EG1091-ND. I’ve ordered a big bag of 100, they will arrive in a couple of days so if you want to get those instead of the square ones with your kit, let me know!

  • i’m down for the round ones for sure

  • hmmm.....I might be into the round buttons too.
  • Alright… But it would be helpful for me if this didn’t degenerate into a “which LED colors do you want? And which knob line color? And do you want an AD823 or a lowly TL072? Red or white LCD color?” customization fest! So maybe I’ll switch to round for everyone…

  • Sounds good.
  • Altitude: no definitive FPD file here, just on paper for my neighbour wich will make my proto.

    PS: Pichenettes si tu peux m'en mettre de coté je t'en achète un lot, et je veux bien participer aux frais de port ;)
  • EATYone: No worries, I just noticed the brd files are available so I can work off that ..

  • Ok, did a concept for the front panel in FPE

    Front Panel

    I didnt look up which LCD is being used so what is there is simply an example of one I use often. This of course has all the bells and whistles like blind threaded holes and a recess for the LCD so it will sit very high in the panel (looks nicer) and even with all that it came in at $49 usd. With no counter bore for the LCD and straight holes for the stand offs, it is $25. The rear panel would be ~16

    Based in the PCB size, the smallest extruded Hammond case is the 1455P1601 which looks like this

    and runs $24/28 at mouser depending on whether you want natural or black

  • So is the only way of having buttons go through a face plate by mounting the PCB to the top of the case? I'm sorry for being a noob.
  • That’s the logical thing to do. You could mount it on the bottom surface but then you make the alignment of everything considerably more complex

  • If you want to go the bottom mounted way, you can get those (20mm high) almost everywhere. There are 10mm and 15mm high versions, too, and with 1mm bolts you can get any height.

  • Altitude u cant do like this, i cant tell u why now, i've got my baby in my arms :)
  • Noie,
    you could also use panel mount pots and buttons (if you can find nice buttons at a good price). that way you'd have the pcb where you like it.
  • Altitude with the lcd, there is an extra pcb of 2,85 cm on the left i u want to center the lcd with the pots, look at photos here:

    (don't find how to join photo in message lol)
  • EATYone: Yup, I saw that. I am a late comer to the party here so I dont even have any of the hardware yet so fitting the LCD with the kit is on the list of stuff to finalize. I just did the basic “4 screws and a counter sink” based on a chinese LCD I have a bunch of to get basic pricing from FPE. Moving stuff around does not change the price, just adding features does..

    and btw, images are added by just putting a ! and ! at the start and end of the URL..

  • i think i'd like to fit this into a 1u rackmount case. (when i get money together to buy a kit...
  • That LCD is a trip, never used a serial one before. Was wondering why it only had three wires.

    I assume we could use the SerLCD backpack and any LCD?

    I cant seem to find a mechanical drawing on the sparkfun site, anyone have it?

    I am also missing 2 pots that go to the mainboard but they should not be an issue

  • @altitude: I used a LCD display with a serial interface because I was short on pin count and code size. Later, I figured out I could put a shift register and write to the the 6 pins of the LCD I needed through it, but it was a bit late… I am not sure I would make this choice again anyway :) Yes, the LCD backpack from Sparkfun could be used to make any LCD “compatible” with the Shruti-1

  • @pichennttes

    Not a bad choice actually, 16 pins and wiring up a proper ribbon is a pain in the ass and I’ll happily pay the extra $15 for an serial LCD so I dont have to deal with it

  • Altitude don’t forget the 3 CV in too ;)

  • Something I was looking at was the Pactec HPLS-9VB.

    Has a battery enclosure, area for the LCD (with bezel plate) and room for all the controls and then some.

  • too small :(

    PCB Dimensions: 7 x 3.6 x 1.2 in.

  • Dang, missed that.
  • I forgot to update you on the round buttons: the EG1091-ND are a tad larger and do not stay in place. Will try EG1882-ND.

  • Hi,

    I am intending to build a similar custom case as I have for mi Midibox SID...

    Is anyone else planning to build a keyboard version?
  • Whoa, TD! This is REALLY nice! Could you elaborate a little on that - I LOVE that case! Very tasty, in fact - the best housing job on a diy synth I have seen so far. fantastic!
  • TD, great built. have you posted it on midibox too?
    i'm planning to learn how to do that too. (edit: a keyboard)
    how did you do it? did you use qbas' code?
  • I will perhaps try to put the shruti inside my Edirol PCR A30…

  • Hi,
    thanks for the nice comments.
    I' a bit embarrassed I didn't really document the building process, I promise I will better so for the Shruti1...!

    A few comments on the build:
    - The keyboard is interfaced via MIDI; that was just the quickest way to get it done. It would have been cleaner to interface the diode matrix via a digital-in module, but I'm a very impatient person... :-) There's a switch on the backpanel, where I can choose internal keyboard or external MIDI.
    - The keyboard is a standard oxygen8 clone where I removed everything but the midi-board and the keyboard itself.
    - The synth is powered by single 12 VAC supply; the other required voltages are generated internally (incl. the 120VDC for the tube)
    - The synth has one core module and two SIDs, so it has 6-voice polyphony in ensemble mode.
    - It has a tube output stage; actually it's an OP-amp buffer to protect the SIDs that goes into a ECC83 based cathode follower.
    - The case is made of beech plywood, stained and finished in epoxy; it is inspired (who'd guessed) by the Moog Prodigy case
    - The frontpanel is from Schaeffer (Frontpanel Express), as you guys said they are perfect but pricey. BTW, I found out that the price goes down if you import all the engravings and letterings as a single hpgl file...

    There's some more pictures of the synth:
  • I'm hoping to get together with a friend whose main hobby is making "stuff" out of unusual materials to construct a custom case. Probably something in clear perspex with a pile of completely unneccessary additional LEDs, but I'm not sure yet. I want something that can keep it compact and self-contained but which allows for maximum future hackability, so we've got some careful planning to do...
  • I would like to make a bamboo case by way of as I did for some modular front panels:

    If it’s cheapest. If buying a faceplate is cheaper than making the whole enclosure, I’ll prolly just do that instead.

    Still have to figure out how to do 3d – I guess people are using SketchUp -> inkscape -> EPS for that.
    Of course I’ll share the design if anyone’s interested.

  • smrl: That’s a dope idea, With the Hindu etching it would look dope. Head over the midibox forums and dig through there and see how the SammichSID was done. You might even want to contact Wilba since he has a pretty good handle with making 3d ponoko parts. The laser burns away 0.1mm of material with every cut so you have to take that into account when doing 3d parts that are supposed to fit tightly together. This would definitely be the cheapest enclosure you could do however. I did 5 GM5x5x5 cases for $39

  • Yeah, your case inspired me to do my modular in bamboo ;)

    However, it seems that the etching must take a substantial amount of time. I’d guestimate that this one panel was $40-50. Burning a bunch of holes and etching lots of text adds up quickly… My one panel (size b, what was that, like 15x15 maybe?) was $90 shipped.

    Your design was pretty minimal. I think it could probably be for the Shruti-1 as well, but there would still be a bunch of holes…

    Thanks for the heads-up tho, i’ll try to get in touch with wilba.

  • That bamboo thing… Wow, I want one :) I hope you’ll share all this stuff, I’ll be patiently learning from you

  • Yeah, it is pretty neat. is a laser cutting outfit and you can literally have them make anything you want provided it is either a cut or an engraving in a variety of materials. Here is my case for my GM5:

    but people have done 3d cases using this method also:

  • OK, so I just went through the forums and tried to get whatever info I could find. Not too much on the sammichsid cutting/engraving process that I could find. Looked in the construction manual and there were some “hints” to be found there w/r/t how to affix the board. Am I right in assuming that the holes in the PCB don’t actually align for stacking of the boards? That would be somewhat unfortunate. I suppose the top would have to be affixed to the top panel and the bottom to the bottom…

    Also, as I’ve seen how Wilba did his design, the sides are actually just held together by the pressure of the top & bottom smashing them together. Dunno how much I like that, but I don’t see any obvious alternative.

    In any event, I made it through the instructables here

    to get my project from sketchup to inkscape to EPS. Seems to work really well. I’d like to send a design out soon but I’d need some more specs on part dimensions (the jacks, LCD, and buttons in particular). Otherwise I’ll just wait for my box to arrive and spend some quality time with a calipers.

  • ahrm, not sure how to do links here. you get the point.
  • smrl... would you mind sharing your basic layout? I would really like to jump the bandwaggon, maybe some other guys (pichinettes/olivier) would like to do so, too...

    I also have this old oxygen 8 controller sitting here, but I am a bit afraid that I might just destroy it in the process of building an integrated keyboard synth. although this would be the ultimate, in my opinion.
  • There’s a guy really into CAD who started working on a case design for the Shruti-1. He has sent me a couple of “work in progress” pictures and I’ll ping him to see if he’s OK if I post them.

    His idea, which is good I think, is not to stack the board, but put them side by side. The control panel and LCD boards are elevated on those “columns” with a hexagonal section (have no idea how this is called in english).

  • “those “columns” with a hexagonal section “ = Stand off.

    I am taking the same approach, there is no REAL need to stack them since you can fit the mainboard below the LCD

  • I’ve posted another discussion in this category with links to all datasheets/dimensions. Let me know if there’s more stuff I must research!

  • I have all the x-y coordinates for the holes worked up so I’ll post them here and there..

  • I'd like to make a faceplate that is euro format size and mount the pcbs parrallel to the faceplate so that it is not to deep (the input/output would not be mounted on the pcbs, but on the faceplate) I'm waiting for the mac version of frontpanel designer to come out, I read somewhere that it was supposed to come out in april (I couldn't get the windows version to work with crossover). One person over at muffwiggler is thinking about eurofying the shruti any body else have this in mind?
  • I can't wait to see what you guys come up with from Ponoko. I'd much rather spend some money on a complete custom case, rather than a Hammond and a panel from FPE.
    The design process doesn't look that complicated...maybe I'll try my hand at something, too.

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