The core of the filter is the same. The mkII uses less part and requires less manual adjustments.
You wouldn’t notice the difference in a double blind test but the mkII Builds much better.
I thought I had the MK2 until I looked at mine the other day.
The MK2 is easier to add the mods right?
Yes, the mods are easier to add. Oh and the mkII has this fix for the “resonance tone through VCA bleed” problem – on the mkI it needs a bit of hacking to get it…
...although it only needs a 1 megohm resistor that costs a few pence ;-)
Martin
Looking at the PCB on the store, it doesn’t mention if the SMR4 PCB for sale is MK1 or MK2. I’m guessing it will be the MK2 but the picture shows the MK1 still. Mind you, I’d be more likely to build another 4PM or a Dual SVF (and possibly mod it).
well you can always learn how to solder and build your own from a kit. that’s the cheapest solution!
@Mr53rg10
They sound the same. The mkII is easier to build and it doesn’t require complicated adjustments to make it sound right. Which also means that with a mkI unit there’s a significant chance that the guy did not properly take the time to adjust it – so it won’t sound optimally.
The mkII is easier to mod to add extra features (bandpass mode), but since you’re building an assembled unit you’re not into the DIY business anyway, so you don’t care…
> Should I better say no
Maybe, because it’s obvious to me the guy is trying to oversell his stuff by saying the mkI is better and making it look “vintage”, so there’s a chance he might be bullshitting you on other points.
I think we will have to look it this way: the newer MK2 sets the Standard since the Filter is Preset in Reso, DC and LOWWW by the Master of modern Filterdesign itself to his favorite Sweet Spot. The MK1 has the same Filter Core and VCA so he can sound exactly like the MK2 and is supposed to do so.
Every deviation from the MK2 sound is simply mistuning.
My MKis are about 6 months old now and they are starting to get that antique vintage sound to them. You can almost see the cobwebs and moss on the waveforms.
Yes same for guitar pickups. They must be soaked in urine and left in the sun. Then they’re vintage and can be sold on eBay.
It is widely known that the electrons in old PCBs are older than the electrons in new PCBs. And if you want vintage tone, you have to go for old electrons.
I keep trying to explain the value of old electrons to my wife.
Don’t forget to wash your hands!
Minimoog. I would definitely take the minimoog to the island. The Moogs have consistently round electrons hence the smooth filtration.
The Voyager does. They call it pot mapping.
When the electron, assuming round ones for now, falls into its hole do you think it’s like a golf ball falling into the hole? Is it a concave surface surrounding the nucleus that it sort of rolls around in like those motorcycles that ride around inside of a spherical cage?
So anyway, my point is, if the electrons snap into their holes due to the polarity does that make a noise, like a popgun? If the electron rolls around and around before falling into the hole does that make a rolling noise followed by a kerplunk?
And if they are indeed noises, do not those noises then build into a resounding crescendo that cascades from your Shruthi (or minimoog) like sheets of white lightning?
I haven’t even started drinking yet either.
Order the kit and build it. Get the standard SMR-4mkii kit as it has step by step instructions and all of the parts that you need. All you need to provide are some tools, two hands, and some time.
We will help you as much as we can. We all started where you are right now… And your Shruthi will never sound bad. It will either make no sound at all or it will sound incredible!
The shruthi has 2 parts. The digital board and the analog board. The digital boars is were the oscilators live, as well as the envelopes, LFO, MOD Matrix, etc.. The filter is the bottom board. This is what gives the synth it’s “life”! The kits ship with the SMR-4 which is a 4 pole filter, similar to a Moog filter. Since the digital and analog boards are separate, Olivier offers several different types of filters. FYI, the “Roland” filter is no longer produced.
But, I’d suggest getting the kit for starters. It may even benefit to start with a simpler kit first before throwing down a chunk of change for a Shruthi. But, as mentioned, there are no wires to worry about with a Shruhti, so the build is generally very easy as long as you follow the step by step instructions.
i think the Shruthi is easy enough to start with, if you just take time to read the build instructions and do it carefully step by step.
the SMR filter that comes with the kit sounds great, the others (SSM2044,CEM3379,IR3109) basically do the same thing, just each with slightly different character. the SVF and digital FX, as well the Polivoks are different. but if you look for a synth that can do all the things considered standard the SMR is the right thing to start with.
hehe i didn’t even mention the new 4pole mission, maybe i should hurry to make it a reality for myself
I’ve created a new category “The Market”
Sometimes I amaze myself by how dumb I am. I was thinking about adding the bandpass filter mod to my Shruthi and started looking for the points labelled BP1 and BP3. And then, I finally noticed, after building the thing and using it for a month or so, I have the MKI. Doh! I think it’s tuned properly, and I’ve done the 4-pole/2-pole switch mod. I have no idea where the 1M resistor is supposed to go ‘though.
Is the schematic for the MKI on the site somewhere? I lost a pad when I did the 4-pole/2-pole switch and I’m not sure it’s really having any effect so I’d like to know where I could put jumpers instead.
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